People like us. Visit us on Facebook.

Australian map made of steel Trying to compare rainwater tanks on the market and work out price differences??? Our Australian Aquaplate steel is produced to Australian potable water standards. Some imported steel does not meet standards. Our galvanised steel is Z600, specifically manufactured in Australia for rainwater tanks. Cheaper Z450 galvanised steel is not intended for rainwater tanks. Not all steel tanks are equal in quality.

Frequently Asked Questions

General FAQ's

Q: What size tank do I need?

A: This depends on location of tank and what the water is to be used for. Considering that most of Australia is now facing massive water issues, try to maximize your rainwater harvest. Even a small tank can harvest a considerable volume of rainwater if the tank is continually being drained then filled in the next rain. You can reduce your dependence Australia 's water supplies and your water bill through ensuring you harvest the optimum amount of rainwater. Tanks now come in a variety of styles and sizes, check out our Products to find one that's right for you!

Q: What can I use the water for?

A: Regardless of your location, rainwater can safely be used for watering gardens, flushing toilets and washing clothes. However, for those living in heavily populated areas, i.e. city and inner suburbs, it would be wise to filter the rainwater should you want to drink it, due to residual pollution from roof catchments.

Q: What is a suitable surface to sit my new tank on?

A: Remember that 1 litre of water equals 1kg so even a small tank of around 500 litres will weigh 500kg! Therefore, your new tank will require a stable, flat surface. This can be a tank stand, reinforced concrete pad or compacted dolomite/ crusher dust. Please see Site Preparation for further information.

Q: What does the tank come with?

A: Not all tanks will require accessories such as taps or water level indicators. Therefore, we supply our tanks as a basic shell which allows you to choose what accessories you will need. This avoids the un-necessary cost involved with purchasing a tank that comes with fittings and accessories that you do not require or, that are not suitable.

Q: How much water can I collect from my roof?

A: This is fairly simple to work out; you just need to know approximately how many square metres of roof catchment you have. Basically, 1mm of rain on 1 square meter of roof equals 1 litre of water. Therefore, if I have a roof of 50 square meters and we get a downfall of 9mm the equation is:

50 x 9 = 450L of water can be harvested.

Q: How do I keep my tank water clean?

A: Primarily, keep your gutters clean. This will ensure plant matter such as leaves will not end up rotting away at the bottom of your tank and contaminating your water. Secondly, reduce sunlight infiltration into your rainwater tank. This will inhibit the growth of algae. If a manhole/access cover is fitted to your tank, ensure that it always in place. Thirdly, have your tank regularly cleaned by a professional tank cleaner. Please refer to Tank Care and Maintenance for more information.

Q: What is a first flow diverter?

A: After a period of dry weather when your roof catchment has accumulated considerable dirt and dust pollutants, a first flow diverter will divert the first runoff ensuring your tank does not receive potentially dirty water.

Q: Am I eligible for a rebate?

A: Rebates are now available in most Australian states for rainwater tanks although each state has different application conditions. Please check with your state what rebates you may be eligible for.

Site Preparation

Site preparation is important and all tanks require a stable, flat surface. Rocks in the surface will puncture the base of the tank. Do not use wooden sleepers.

Site Preparation Sample of Good Base Options
Site unsuitable for a tank base. Note uneven surface and presence of rocks A suitable tank base made from dolomite. Pad is larger than the tank's diameter, has been levelled and compacted.
Bad Site Preparation Sample
Site unsuitable for a tank base. Note uneven surface and presence of rocks
Good Site Preparation Samples
A suitable tank base made from dolomite. Pad is larger than the tank's diameter, has been levelled and compacted.

Pad

A reinforced concrete pad must be level and greater than the diameter of the tank. A pad of dolomite/crusher dust is also suitable, but must be level and compact and, no less than 100mm thick. Again, the diameter of the pad must be greater than the tank.

Earth-Ring

An earth-ring can be used. For a round, traditional tank we can supply a suitable sized ring. This must be filled with coarse sand or dolomite, and compacted.

Tank Stands

A stand for a round traditional tank must have hardwood decking with gaps no greater than 50mm (2").This is also suitable for ecotanks. Bearers must be strong enough to structurally support decking and prevent sagging when tank is full. The frame of the stand must be engineered to support the weight of the tank when full to capacity. The legs of the stand must be supported by a firm, solid, level base such as a concrete slab or large (i.e. 600mm x 600mm) concrete pavers. Once in place, the tank should be filled with enough water to prevent it blowing off or tied down.

tank stand tank stand tank stand tank stand These metal tank stands have been designed for the Ecotank®. Tank stands must be engineered to correctly support the base of a tank when the tank is full to capacity.

Malthoid

Malthoid is black tar matting. We strongly recommend malthoid be placed under all galvanised tanks to protect the base of the tank. We are able to supply malthoid pre-cut to size.

Tank Care and Maintenance

Approximately 62 per cent of South Australians store rainwater for regular use such as drinking, washing and watering gardens. However, only 17 percent actually keep their rainwater healthy through annual tank cleaning, combined with pre and post tank filtration and maintenance. Every household should take responsibility for the health and safety of their rainwater and storage tank. It is a common misconception that if the water looks clean it must be okay. Water in a poorly maintained tank inevitably contains bacteria and other impurities. These simple tips will help to ensure the health of your water and tank.

  • Keep your gutters and roof catchment clear of organic matter such as leaves etc.
  • Ensure your tank is cleaned annually, before summer. Rapid bacterial growth and the leaching of tannins from leaves and organic debris are promoted by warmer water, with high sludge levels.
  • Filtering the water after it leaves the tank, post-tank filtration, is no substitute for clean gutters, pre-tank filtration (leaf filters and water diverters) and annual tank cleaning.
  • Position the tank in the coolest possible location. In cooler water, debris and sediment settle more rapidly and tannins are less easily extracted from bark, leaves etc.
  • By disconnecting down pipes from your tank before the first rain, after a long dry spell, you will prevent dust, debris and other pollutants collected on your roof from entering your tank. Alternatively a first-flush diverter can be installed.
  • Paraffin oil or kerosene added to your tank water will not prevent mosquitoes breeding. The oil will turn to wax in cold water, and the kerosene can pose a health risk. A properly sealed tank will prevent insect entry. Sealing also ensures the tank remains as dark as possible, keeping algal growth to a minimum.
  • Rainwater is naturally mildly acidic. As it falls through the atmosphere it dissolves carbon monoxide, giving it a pH around 6.5. By adding a teaspoon of baking soda to 450 litres of rainwater will take the pH to 7.0. This will make the water softer, reducing the need for soap and detergents in washing.
  • Over an extended period, organic debris collecting in a galvanised tank generates citric acid, altering the pH to around 5.5. This will lead to tank corrosion, creating the common "rusty tank" problem. An annual tank clean will maintain near neutral levels, extending the life of your tank.